Known as the perfume capital of India, a stroll through the Bada Bazaar in Kannauj will awaken the olfactory senses.
Strolling down narrow streets flanked by shops of various sizes in Bada Bazaar, an old market area of Kannauj in India’s Uttar Pradesh, the fragrances of rose, jasmine, saffron, sandal and vetiver impregnate the air, assaulting the olfactory senses. Every shop has shelves lined with a myriad collection of glass bottles, from simple vials to more ornate cut glass containers, packed with attar or itr, the essential oils that have been the identity of Kannauj for centuries.
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Kannauj, also called the perfume capital of India, is to India what Grasse is to France. Around two hours from the historical city of Nawabs, Lucknow, and four hours from Agra, Kannauj lies in the fertile Indo-Gangetic plain. With a 400-year-old history of perfume distillation, the city is home to around 200 functioning distilleries, many of which have been in the families for generations.
While the city dates back to the sixth century, when it was a bustling trading town and part of King Harshwardhana’s empire, it was during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jahangir and Queen Nur Jahan that the perfumers received much royal patronage. It is said that the queen was fond of bathing in scented water and she took a fancy to the fragrant, locally-grown pink Rosa damascene.
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While flowers are sourced from nearby regions too, the preferred choice of Kannauj’s perfumers are the locally cultivated jasmine, rose and henna. Divy Gupta, owner of Raahi Parfums, says, “The rich alluvial soil of Kannauj gives the flowers a bold and strong fragrance that is truly special.”
In Kannauj, the plucking of flowers begins at the break of dawn. By the time the rest of the town is busying itself with chores, the flowers are collected in large burlap sacks and delivered to the distilleries. In the traditional process, a huge copper vessel called a deg is half-filled with water and the petals are added to different pots. The copper vessel, fired with wood and cow dung cakes, is then sealed with a mixture of cotton and Multani mitti or Fuller’s earth. A bamboo pipe jutting out of the lid leads to the bhabka, another copper vessel kept immersed in cold water. Here, the steam, infused with floral scents, is collected by condensation over a base oil, usually sandalwood. The concentrated and purest form of attar is called rooh, which is the essential oil created from the flowers and devoid of any kind of base oil.
Eighth generation perfumer and owner of Indian Naturals & Pkapo Opulence, Pranav Kapoor, says, “The slow distillation by traditional methods of extracting the attar gives it a unique strong fragrance. Sandalwood oil as a base for attars is what sets them apart from solvent-based or alcohol-based perfumes. There is just no comparison.”
Besides the rose and jasmine, a blend of 25 spices is used to create a unique attar called shamama, claimed to provide warmth during nippy air with the application of just one drop. Normally used as a food ingredient, perfumers at Kannauj have even managed to bottle the petrichor. “It brings all other flavours together,” says master craftsman Ramsingh, who has been working for 35 years at the degkhana or distillery.
The GI tagged Kannauj attars and essential oils have more recently come under spotlight with the prime minister of India gifting attar to all G20 summit delegates. Mostly exported all over the world, some of the generational perfumers also offer these for retaill. The cost of attar depends on the base oil used. A pure sandalwood oil based 10ml attar bottle can cost up to Rs3500 (US$42).
Where to Buy
Indian Naturals and PKapo Opulence will set up an online store this year. Currently their products are available at their facility in Kannauj. Gauri Sugandh is another generational distillery and retailer of attar with a shop in Bada Bazaar, Kannauj. Alternatively, buy online at ML Ramnarayan Distillery and Raahi Parfums.
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