Hotel Review: Bali’s Heaven Sent Sancturary

Hidden away north of Bali’s spiritual capital, Abisena Ubud is just the new rural escape the urban weary require.
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Hidden away north of Bali’s spiritual capital, Abisena Ubud is just the new rural escape the urban weary require.

Ask anyone who’s actually explored the island, and they’ll tell you that there’s the Bali of beach clubs, crowded bars and snarling traffic, and then there’s the real Bali, which takes a little more effort to discover but which rewards travellers with the tranquility that’s made the Island of the Gods a destination since the 1930s. Abisena Ubud is the latter in all its natural, peaceful glory.

So, it’s in Ubud?

Yes and no. It’s about 30 minutes in the resort shuttle to the heart of Ubud but the bliss here is that the pint-sized resort is quite hidden away from the tourist centre. The whole property is wreathed by dense jungle and rice paddies reminiscent of the island’s tourism innocence. You’ll hear nothing but birdsong and the occasional farmer singing to his buffalo.

Hidden away north of Bali’s spiritual capital, Abisena Ubud is just the new rural escape the urban weary require.

What are the first impressions?

Again, refreshing. Beaming staff greeted us in the lofty lobby, which looks down across the cascading main swimming pool and guided us down garden-lined paths to our ultra-private pool villa. While the resort was about half full, there was no sense of other guests – seclusion and serenity are all but guaranteed.

How about the room?

Those vibrant tropical gardens extend into the villa’s outdoor spaces, where a sizeable plunge pool looks out across a steep valley populated by palm trees. You can see glimpses of rooftops but that’s the only sense that you’re having to share the locale with anyone else.

Hidden away north of Bali’s spiritual capital, Abisena Ubud is just the new rural escape the urban weary require.

Slip inside and you’ll find a master bedroom in gleaming wood with a four-poster bed, a day bed and a small workspace. Beyond, the bathroom boasts a deep copper bathtub, twin vanities and a walk-in shower. Glass doors open the space to the pool with its twin sun lounges and suspended hummock.

What’s there to do?

Plenty. There are guided village and rice paddy walks, the expansive main pool, a calendar of cultural activities and a brilliant spa, where brilliant Balinese wellness treatments take place in open-air suites located behind a waterfall cascading down from the main pool above. Also, leave time for a dip in the jacuzzi and indoor pool, a session in the steam or sauna rooms or a yoga session in the dedicated bamboo sala.

Hidden away north of Bali’s spiritual capital, Abisena Ubud is just the new rural escape the urban weary require.

How about dining?

The resort’s evening happy hour takes place poolside (great room packages include activities, sundowners and even a photo shoot per stay) but for the best sunsets, head to the very top of the resort, where the Runara Restaurant is a heavenly semi-outdoor space with brilliant views across the valley and a menu that taps both traditional French and Balinese cuisines.

Who is it suited to?

The resort recently went adults-only, so expect plenty of love birds looking to immerse themselves in Balinese culture as well as the resort’s spectacular rural setting.

Nick Walton

Nick, a Bali-based travel and lifestyle journalist, has 18 years of experience as an editor, publisher, photographer, commentator, and media trainer. He has held editorial roles, including Travel Editor at the South China Morning Post, Editor-in-Chief of NecesCity, and Managing Editor of Elite Traveler’s Asia edition. He has contributed to global magazines, such as The National, Sydney Morning Herald, CNN Traveler, and Robb Report. As Managing Director and Editor of Artemis Communications Ltd., he oversees luxury travel and custom magazine solutions. Walton frequently comments on travel trends for outlets like CNN, Sky News, and the BBC.

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