We slip aboard the iconic Eastern & Oriental luxury train as it returns with new itineraries that explore Malaysia’s largest tiger sanctuary.
Like a majestic snake languishing in the sun, the 15 distinctive bottle green and cream striped carriages of the Eastern & Oriental reflect softly in the polished concrete platform at Singapore’s Woodlands Station. The renowned gold tiger emblem and wording twinkle, a testament to its grandeur and esteemed status. This is not just any train. It’s a luxurious hotel on wheels, a sanctuary of exclusivity, and a nod to the grand, romantic era of slow travel.
I’m embarking on a once-in-a-lifetime journey aboard Asia’s Eastern & Oriental Express, a Belmond Train (fondly known as the E&O), one which echoes the opulence of Europe’s Golden Era of travel.
The inaugural E&O departed Singapore for Bangkok in 1993. During its Covid-enforced four-year hiatus, all soft furnishings were refurbished, enhancing the train’s grandeur before it resumed service in February 2024.
Instead of travelling to Bangkok, two new four-day return journeys are offered between Singapore and Malaysia: The Essence of Malaysia: A Gateway into Malay Culture, and Wild Malaysia: Exploring Sights Unseen.
Echoing the train’s emblem and its partnership with NGO Save Wild Tigers, I’m on the Wild Malaysia journey, which delves into the tigers’ environment, Taman Negara National Park, before visiting historic Penang.
From the moment my smartly uniformed cabin steward Raffie welcomes me aboard, I’m enveloped in a world of exclusive sensory delights. The polished, floor-to-ceiling marquetry panelling throughout the train blends elegantly with new handcrafted Malaysian silks, embroidered upholstery, and handmade Thai carpets, creating a rich cultural tapestry of Southeast Asia.
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Each of the Eastern & Oriental Express’ cabin’s colours reflect the regions the train travels through: Kuala Lumpur’s burgundy reds and azure blues for the Pullman cabins, Penang’s intense oceanic blues and greens for the Staterooms, and deep gold hues oozing regal splendour and lavishness for the full carriage Presidential suite.
The coloured themes continue, with tropical golds and greens in the Observation Bar and Piano Bar, while the Adisorn dining car flourishes jungle greens, and the Malay dining car is cloaked in rich ruby reds.
As the Eastern & Oriental Express crossed the Johor Causeway onto the Malay Peninsula, an announcement declares that the bars are open, and thirty minutes later, afternoon tea will be served.
I head to the rear Observation Bar. With French champagne in hand, I step onto the al fresco viewing deck and mingle with other guests who are excitedly celebrating birthdays, anniversaries, retirement or fulfilling a lifelong dream of travelling on this enchanting train.
Retreating to the cool serenity of the Piano Bar, I befriend Kishen, the Indian mixologist who knows exactly what I want each time I return to his countertop.
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As the city outskirts morph into verdant countryside, we move to the Malay dining room for afternoon tea. Two- and four-seater tables are covered with crisp white linen, crystal glasses and signature embossed fine bone china. Dainty tropical fruit bowls, bite-size melting-moment chocolate cups, and slithers of salty caramel tart are tastefully arranged on a two-tier platter. Champagne is poured, and we feel like royalty, toasting to the bespoke journey as a wandering magician entertains each table with slick card tricks.
Sunset cocktails from six and dinner at eight are glamorous affairs. From men in tuxedos and deep blue velvet jackets to women sashaying in gold lurex or colourful silk dresses, everyone is so elegant and at one with the surroundings.
Before and after dinner, the Piano Bar embodies a jazz club ambience with piano, saxophone, or sultry song tunes lingering in the air. Stewards serve signature cocktails, champagne and after-dinner nightcaps. It’s a world of grandness.
Each innovative in-room breakfast, three-course lunch, afternoon tea and four-course dinner menu are a special feast curated by Michelin-recognised chef André Chiang and superbly executed by chef Ivan Mah, personally trained by Chiang.
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Each meal features seasonal, sustainably sourced ingredients celebrating Malaysia’s kaleidoscopic culture. From deliciously spicy laksa to flavoursome ‘nine peppers jus’ sixteen-hour-braised beef cheek and indulgent desserts like Jungle Spices Cacao Ganache and handmade tropical fruit-flavoured chocolates, it’s an irresistible gastronomic journey.
There’s no chocolate on your pillow at night. Instead, the practical gifts include a stainless-steel monogrammed water bottle, a lavender eye pack, a functional decorative fan and a carry bag made with the train’s old soft furnishing fabrics.
The all-inclusive off-train adventures are just as unique. At Merapoh Station, the gateway to Taman Negara National Park, the second oldest tropical rainforest in the world is opened, and energetic guests e-bike past scenic limestone outcrops and Kampung villages to the Shooting Stars and Dragon’s Scale caves. Meanwhile, the photography and Malaysian tiger conservation groups head into the jungle, sitting on padded planks across open tray-back Jeeps.
I’m on the Spirit of the Tiger conservation tour, weaving along narrow tracks, surrounded by towering trees sheltering massive ferns beneath. The perfumed aromas each emits are intoxicating as we drive by. High-pitched cicada songs are our music.
Leaving the photography group halfway to spy on the birds and animals from a pre-set hide and a treetop walk into the forest’s canopy, we continue further into Taman Negara.
After passing the majestic, cloud-cloaked Gunung Tahan peak, we stop at Kelah Sanctuary. Protected Kelah fish bask in the golden Juram River water, and the distinct calls of gibbon families and hornbills compete while we enjoy delicious tropical fruits, local cakes, chilled pandan water, coffee or ginger tea.
It’s an idyllic setting to chat with the local Malaysian tiger conservationists. Fewer than 100 critically endangered Malaysian tigers remain in the wild. Their greatest challenge is poaching, although active camera trap monitoring has helped.
At George Town ferry terminal on Penang Island, a long row of colourful tri-shaws and drivers await their guests, who’ll choose their own city adventures. Another smaller row of vintage Vespa scooters and drivers will take their pillion passengers on a cultural art and artistry tour around historic George Town. Lastly, luxury air-conditioned vans await the food aficionados like me for the Flavour of Penang tour.
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First, we stop at Penang’s oldest market, Chowrasta, buzzing with locals filling their baskets, before heading to the Botanical Gardens, where sporty jeeps ferry us up Penang Hill to Eythrope House, a 100-year-old Art Deco residence turned boutique hotel directly opposite the Upper Station. Here, on the veranda, we enjoyed a homestyle Chinese and Indian cooking class matched with 180-degree views of the city and Penang Strait.
On the final morning, as Belmond arranges a private car to my departing Singapore destination, my mind keeps wandering back to the timeless trappings of these last few days. Journeying on the E&O Express is a travel experience beyond mere luxury. It’s a memoir of a beguiling age, jampacked with sensual refinements, and rolled into inspiring snapshots of Southeast Asian life.
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Note: the author travelled on a fully paid ticket without the train company’s prior knowledge
