Ina Yulo Stuve talks with fashion designer Neil Felipp about cultural inspiration, legacy and forging the path for Filipino design.
From golden dragons to the mystical phoenix, Neil Felipp San Pedro’s creations seamlessly weave childhood memories with traditional folklore, evoking a sense of playful yet powerful luxury.
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He’s been called a storyteller, and upon stepping inside his eponymous boutique at The Peninsula Hotel in Manila, it’s clear you’ve walked into a world where magical creatures beckon at every corner, just waiting for their tales to be told: the Medusa & Midas collection features antique-finished brass serpents locked in a deadly embrace, a reimagination of the traditional characters from Greek mythology, while a blue abalone-inlaid dragonfly perches on a baby blue parchment minaudière, symbolising the power of change.
Waltzing with Dragons & Mermaids
When speaking about his first foray into becoming a bag designer, San Pedro goes back to one of his first muses, his mother.
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“I had graduated from university and was working on my design studio. My mum was attending a formal event and was wearing an off-shoulder midnight blue gown with blue sapphire earrings and midnight blue shoes. She didn’t have a bag, so she asked me to design one for her,” he explains. This task prompted him to reflect on cherished memories with his mom, bringing to mind visions of the many beach trips they took together. “I really felt like I was a little mermaid during those times,” he says.
And out of this vision came one of his signature pieces: the Siren minaudière, a stunning evening bag made out of blue capiz—the delicate and beautiful shell from a species of mollusc endemic to the seas of Southeast Asia—draped with a silver-plated brass mermaid clasp. “Everyone started asking her where she got it and wanted to place their own orders. And here I am today!” exclaims San Pedro, whose wares can be found in his flagship studio in Cebu along with boutiques at The Peninsula Manila and Amanpulo in Palawan.
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Crazy Rich Asians
His designs have been spotted in the hands of stars like Vanessa Hudgens, Doja Cat—during New York Fashion Week, no less—and most notably, Gemma Chan’s character Astrid Leong—from the blockbuster film Crazy Rich Asians—was seen toting a Neil Felipp creation.
It was during author Kevin Kwan’s trip to the Philippines while promoting his second book China Rich Girlfriend, that he spotted San Pedro’s Suzy Wong tab shell minaudière at a book signing. The guest at the signing was holding the striking clutch with a brass dragon crawling on its side, and the author couldn’t help but ask who the designer was. Kwan posted a photo of the bag on his Instagram and, after connecting with San Pedro, asked if he would be open to being part of his third book.
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The real Cinderella moment, however, came when Kwan dropped San Pedro’s name into the laps of Crazy Rich Asians director Jon M. Chu and costume designer Mary Vogt. Seeing his creation on the silver screen was a real pinch-me moment for San Pedro, who says: “I just love Astrid’s character. She is the woman that I really love to design for. She’s one of the characters that is really so powerful and can really show the world what a woman can do.”
Vanessa Hudgens with the Oceania in white mother of pearl
Collaborating with Artisans
Working with the artisan community of his native Cebu, the Philippines’ second city, is one of the most important aspects of San Pedro’s design philosophy. He explains that unbeknownst to many, a number of luxury houses such as Issey Miyake, Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton and Chanel have been making their products in Cebu for decades.
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Dubbed the “Milan of Asia”, Cebu was also named a UNESCO “Creative City of Design” and sits at the centre of the country’s shell trade. As a third-generation brass smith, it was natural for San Pedro to use the alloy as his key medium. “But at the same time, I wanted to integrate my own craftsmanship with the local craftsmanship, which is shell trade. I wanted to showcase, not only locally but also globally, how beautiful our craftsmanship is in the Philippines and to highlight the Filipino brand as a global brand,” he says.
Doja Cat with the cherry red Suzy Wong
He cites his mentor, world-renowned furniture designer and fellow son of Cebu, Kenneth Cobonpue, multiple times during our interview, talking passionately about how Cobonpue’s desire to rebel against the status quo helped him smash through barriers to become a powerful force representing Philippine design on an international scale.
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“I think it’s so beautiful right now that we’re starting to see global Filipino designers really putting their mark in the world. You have Kenneth Cobonpue, Cary Santiago, Vito Selma, and, of course, Monique Lhuillier, who is also from Cebu. I do hope my contribution also does something. I think slowly but steadily we are changing the narrative of what it means to be Filipino,” says San Pedro.
Succession
This year marks San Pedro’s 15th year in business, and he has now grown his brand beyond bags to include eau de parfum and homeware, transforming Neil Felipp into a fully-fledged lifestyle brand. “I’ll also be working with my mentor Kenneth Cobonpue as he reimagines the Siren minaudière. It’ll be like the mentor and apprentice coming together,” he says.
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San Pedro also hopes that he can be that guiding light for emerging designers, opening up his boutique to provide a platform for up-and-coming Filipino brands. “In a way, I want there to be an essence of succession. Hopefully, when the time comes for me to step down, there’s somebody there to take the helm. I want to change the narrative that once the designer dies, the brand also dies,” he explains, referencing how the practice of succession seen in many European design houses is not prevalent in the Philippines, with many late iconic designers, such as Ramon Valera, Pitoy Moreno, and Inno Sotto leaving no one to continue their legacies.
As the storyteller begins his new chapter, it will be exciting to see how the journey unfolds. Though treacherous creatures from the underworld may continue to throw obstacles in the hero’s path, it’s the belief in magic and the power of collaboration that will always see him through.
On that note, I have a strong feeling that we haven’t seen the last of the island boy and his stunning shell-crafted masterpieces.
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