Perched on the cusp of the Pacific, and an acclaimed foodie destination, Lima is a culturally rich city constantly reinventing itself.
If Peru isn’t top of mind when it comes to Latin American travel then it should be. The country has it all, from sprawling lakes and dense rainforests to deserts and vibrant cities. It’s home to the Amazon River and Machu Picchu, a stunning coastline, a rich culture and a complex and fascinating history. Of course, all journeys to Peru should rightly start in the country’s mesmerising capital, Lima, which has made a global name for itself for its culinary innovation.
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8 am
Base yourself at the city’s ultimate address, Miraflores Park, a Belmond Hotel (below) and one of South America’s best-kept secrets. With 89 suites it has the appearance of an exclusive residential complex, the kind of place where your neighbours are the movers and shakers of the city.
Overlooking its namesake park and the Pacific Ocean, the hotel’s accommodations are refined, and elegant, and feature subtle, welcoming Peruvian accents combined with the latest technology, sumptuous bathrooms with spa baths, and private outdoor terraces in the Garden Suites. Leave time for an authentic pisco sour in the Belo Bar before dinner at Tragaluz, Miraflores Park’s acclaimed Peruvian-fusion restaurant.
9 am
Lima has long been the leading gastronomic capital of South America and for good reason. From its unique blend of cultural influences and traditions to its easy access to fresh produce from both the Pacific and the Amazon to generations of innovative chefs and restaurateurs, Lima is a city where every appetite is sated.
Get an insider’s perspective on a journey with the Lima Gourmet Company. The five-hour Interactive City & Gourmet Lima Food Tour includes walks through several artsy neighbourhoods like the bohemian Barranco district, sipping locally grown coffee and Peruvian fruit smoothies, a pisco sour workshop, and experiencing the colour of the city’s leading market. It ends with dessert at the pre-Incan ruins of the Huaca Pucllana pyramid, a stone’s throw from your hotel.
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2 pm
If all that touring has still left you hungry, make for Mercado Surquillo Nº 1, one of the capital’s most vibrant and fascinating markets. Located near Parque Kennedy, the markets are a haven for local delicacies, ranging from ají de gallina, a classic Peruvian chicken dish in a spicy cream sauce; to rocoto relleno, juicy peppers filled with seasoned meat and vegetables originally from the desert city of Arequipa; to Peru’s ever-expanding selection of indigenous sandwiches. The Chicharrón, for example, with fried sweet potato, pork crackling, and Peruvian Criollo sauce, is always popular.
For something a little more refined, head to Central Restaurante (be sure to book in advance) for one of the city’s best showcases of Peruvian gastronomy. The restaurant earned 4th place on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2021 with chefs Virgilio Martínez and Pía León’s meticulous take on Peruvian cuisine incorporating native ingredients from across the country. Tasting menus, each centred on produce acquired from different altitudes, offer 8-course affairs all the way to 17-course feasts.
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4 pm
Walk off your meal with a little cultural excursion to the Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI), which boasts a fascinating collection of pre-Columbian and colonial art and some stunning contemporary pieces from local Peruvian artists. Located in the beautiful Palacio de la Exposición, the museum’s artefacts span ceramics and pottery to textiles and paintings. It’s also home to one of the most comprehensive art archives in the region.
6 pm
On your way back to Miraflores Park, walk through Parque del Amor, Lima’s own Park of Love and a popular spot for young couples greeting the evening over the Pacific. Inaugurated on Valentine’s Day in 1993 and supposedly inspired by Barcelona’s Parc Güell, this serene coastal enclave was created to celebrate romance in its many forms. The park is best known for its centrepiece El Beso (“The Kiss”), a striking sculpture of two lip-locked lovers by Peruvian artist Victor Delfín.
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Alternatively, indulge in some self-love at Miraflores Park’s Zest Spa, which uses organic indigenous products from the Peruvian Amazon to create pampering treatments and rituals that range from hydrating facials to reflexology, or make for the hotel’s rooftop pool, an intimate spot for views of the coast at sunset.
7:30 pm
For one of Lima’s best cocktail experiences, make for Carnaval in the upscale district of San Isidro just 3km north of Miraflores, where mixologist Aaron Díaz creates imaginative libations that earned the venue critical acclaim. If you’re struggling to decide on which tipple to toss back, opt for the Gran Carnaval. This seven-cocktail selection includes elevated classics and tropical signatures like the Jungle Bird, which comprises 12-year-old Guatemalan amber rum, lychee, pineapple, Campari liqueur, jungle cane, and honey.
9:30 pm
Perhaps Lima’s most iconic restaurant, Astrid y Gastón (above) opened its doors in 1994 in Miraflores (we told you it was the place to be), although it’s now situated in Casa Moreyra, a historic San Isidro hacienda whose origins trace back to the second half of the 17th century. It’s here that husband-wife duo chef Gastón Acurio and Astrid Gutsche, winner of the “Latin America’s Best Pastry Chef” award, and their team serve insightful cuisine while maintaining deep connections with local producers – think croquettes stuffed with bacalao and silky mozzarella; Pacific scallops with Lucia gnocchi and a sweet sauce made with Amazonian cocona fruit; and Peking-style roasted guinea pig.
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