More than just a breathtaking destination, Chile’s Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is a model of forward-looking sustainability.
Of all the world’s wild places, Chilean Patagonia remains high on the travel lists of intrepid adventurers, and for good reason. Its main drawcard, Torres del Paine, has been attracting outdoor enthusiasts since becoming Parque Nacional de Turismo Lago Gray in 1959.
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In 1978, the fragile ecosystem received further protection by becoming a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Now known as Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (PNTP), the sanctuary remains renowned for its jagged mountain tops, hiking circuits, and abundant wildlife, which includes pumas, ñandú (ostriches) and llama-like guanacos.
Before sustainable tourism, pumas were often killed illegally on private ranches to prevent them from preying on sheep, despite the big cats being protected in Chile since the 90s.
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“Puma tourism is creating conflict between those who benefit from pumas and those who suffer the costs of healthy puma populations, like those who ranch sheep in the region,” says Dr. Mark Elbroch, puma program director at Panthera, the global wild cat conservation organisation. “These conflicts could undermine conservation efforts in the region. Our research involves catching pumas and marking them with GPS collars to determine the best methods of reducing puma-sheep conflict in the region.”
Irresponsible tourism puts a strain on the environment and wildlife. In 2005, a tourist used a gas stove in a grassland area, starting a fire that burned for 10 days. In 2011, a fire devastated 16,190 hectares of the park after a tourist burned toilet paper.
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“It’s no longer possible to camp anywhere within the park. The National Forestry Corporation (CONAF) has restricted camping to 11 campsites that must be booked in advance,” says Anthony Garvin, an environmental attorney and author of Wild Patagonia. “The overall impact of tourism on the park has been devastating because of the impact of wildfires caused by careless campers. To minimise the impact of tourism, travellers should stay in lodges and refugios or only camp in CONAF-designated campsites.”
In 2001, Chilean Patagonia became home to the world’s first sustainable eco-dome hotel, EcoCamp Patagonia, which was was also the first sustainable accommodation in the region. Located just outside the entrance to PNTP, the Torres de Paine peaks serve as a striking backdrop to its 20 forest green domes.
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EcoCamp continues to pave the way for sustainable tourism in the park by using renewable energy (70% hydraulic, 30% solar), banning single-use plastic water bottles, and utilising reusable toiletries. The glamping accommodation features a herb greenhouse and the southernmost composting toilets in the world. All travellers are also offered an eco-tour during their stay to learn about the green ethos of the hotel, which offsets the carbon of the excursion vehicles used for scenic drives and drop-off points for treks through the spectacular terrain.
Claudio Silva is a naturalist trekking guide who’s worked with adventure outfitter REI and EcoCamp, the latter of which supports the Torres del Paine Legacy Fund (TdP Legacy Fund), an organisation dedicated to trail restoration and wildlife conservation. EcoCamp is the largest travel B-Corp business contributing to the TdP Legacy Fund by financing four sustainable tourism grants.
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Silva’s first treks around his Patagonian homeland were with his grandfather 30 years ago. He notes that wildlife has become accustomed to people so it’s more likely than ever to see pumas. Dr. Elbroch adds that pumas are critical components of healthy ecosystems and symbolic of Patagonia’s heritage, noting that puma tourism is a symbol of peaceful coexistence.
In 2001, another leader on the green path in PNTP debuted, adventure travel company Chile Nativo. Founded by Gonzalo Fuenzalida, the company is striving towards becoming carbon neutral and B-Corp certified. The tour contributes to carbon removal efforts including Tomorrow’s Air and Climeworks while the TdP Legacy Fund receives US$15 for each Chile Nativo guest, funds that are used to plant native species of trees throughout the park. Chile Nativo’s environmental efforts include programmes to recycle glass, plastic, aluminium, batteries, and cooking oils.
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Fuenzalida has worked in Torres del Paine for nearly three decades. “In the 90s the park was a new jewel in the outdoor travel industry,” he recalls. Back then, Fuenzaloida says, PNTP received around 60,000 annual visitors. Today, the park averages around 252,000 visitors a year according to CONAF. Fuenzalida states that thanks to sustainable tourism, the local community is benefiting economically, with ranchers offering horseback riding and residents offering lodging. “Ranchers are using guard dogs to protect the sheep from the pumas and gauchos (Chilean cowboys) are working as puma trackers instead of working on a ranch killing the pumas to keep them from killing the sheep,” he says.
Mindful tourists should book trips to PNTP outside of the summer season, when there is a rush of tourists, says Fuenzalida. “The winter has great light for photos and stable climate conditions, plus wildlife is more active.” Silva, meanwhile, suggests visiting the park in the spring for the wildflower bloom.
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Newer hotels in the area are meeting the standards set by EcoCamp. Tierra Patagonia has been operating for a decade and is a sustainable option for those who prefer to stay in a traditional hotel. The property was designed to seamlessly blend in with the pampas terrain and is built from sustainably sourced wood. When Tierra was erected, all the wild plants on-site were moved to a greenhouse and then replanted on the grounds after building was concluded. Those plants help to disguise the hotel and are hydrated using the hotel’s greywater.
Tierra also recycles, uses glass water carafes in rooms, and solar panels, and is hoping to implement windmills soon. “Tierra Hotels is constantly improving its efforts on environmental issues and social impact,” says Ignacio Ríos, a senior guide at Tierra. “The company also prioritises employing people from the area.”
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He suggests taking the bus from Puerto Natales to TdP to reduce pollution. “Sustainable tourism is raising the bar in the development of tourism. Tourists want to take care of the environment,” says Ríos. “We depend 100% on the cycles of nature. Companies that don’t adopt a long-term vision respecting nature will disappear because tourists factor sustainability into their decision-making.”
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