We check into Kyoto’s coolest new luxury enclave, the forest-wreathed Banyan Tree Higashiyama

One of the most anticipated recent openings in the city, the new Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto is a heavenly refuge that combines the best of Japanese culture with world-class hospitality.

READ: Where to Eat, Stay & Play in Miami

First Impressions

My cab driver is as interested in discovering the new Banyan Tree Higashiyama as I am – that’s just how new the hotel is. After helping with the luggage, he pauses to snap a photo of the hotel’s Torii-style gate and cypress wood façade – inspired by the ethereal beauty of Noh theatrical art and the concept of yūgen (or quiet beauty) – on his phone before waving farewell with a white-gloved hand.

Perched above Kyoto’s historic Higashiyama Ward, on a street lined with tiny museums and luxury estates, the boutique onsen hotel – there are just 52 rooms – is only a few minutes’ walk from Gion, one of the city’s busiest precincts and home to the UNESCO-listed Kiyomizu-Dera Temple, and yet has the vibe of a private residence rather than a chain hotel, something aided by its location amidst the bamboo-encrusted Higashiyama Mountains. The creation of architect Kengo Kuma, who took inspiration from those serene surroundings, the hotel fuses traditional Japanese building techniques with contemporary elements, resulting in a harmonious blend that epitomises modern-day Kyoto to perfection.

READ: Castles, Cars and Curves

In the serene lobby, which resembles a private museum space, we sip freshly brewed matcha tea as we warm up, before making our way up two levels to our traditional timber-class room.

The Room

The first thing that grabs me about our Wellbeing Sanctuary King room is the view – from this lofty perch, the whole of Japan’s former Imperial capital presents itself, with panoramic views past the pagoda of the nearby Hōkan-ji Temple, to the distant flanks of the Takatsuki Forest.

READ: Austria’s Ultimate Alpine Getaway

The 55-sqm space, the creation of interior designer Yukio Hashimoto, is unmistakably Japanese in its aesthetics, from its tatami mat floors and deep Hiba wood soak tub (with a tantalising selection of herbal tinctures on hand) to the sunken tea table. However, there are also plenty of contemporary touches, from the king-size bed and flatscreen television to the electric blinds that frame those spectacular vistas.

The Dining

I suspect that rather than compete with Kyoto’s impressive dining scene of tiny hole-in-the-wall finds and Michelin-starred gems, the Banyan Tree has instead decided to offer a very focused foray into traditional Japanese gastronomy. This means that Ryozen, the hotel’s only eatery (there’s also an intimate speakeasy below the restaurant that’s open a few nights a week) offers fascinating but rather inflexible kaiseki menus. Depending on how long you’ve been in Japan, this might be a welcomed introduction to heritage cuisine or a little restrictive (especially when breakfasts are similarly translated).

READ: Sublime New Hideaway to Open in Queenstown

That said, leave time for at least one dinner at Ryozen, where you’ll be rewarded with dishes that celebrate both artistry and sustainability and are punctuated with produce like aged seaweed and black-shichimi chilli peppers sourced from local farms.

Wellness

At its core, the new Banyan Tree is a modern onsen hotel, and guests can soothe those post-exploration limbs at dedicated gender-separated onsen baths, fed by natural hot springs; in the invigorating steam and sauna suites; or with a contemporary treatment at the Banyan Tree Spa – the Onsen Indulgence includes a 60-minute private soak followed by a 60-minute full-body massage. If you’re an onsen junkie, be sure to book one of the dedicated onsen guest rooms so you can soak to your heart’s content.

READ: A New Fine Dining Destination for Phuket

Activities

If you have the willpower to leave the hot baths, take your cultural immersion to the next step with a visit to the studio of master artisan Ms. Mitsue Nakamura, who creates traditional Noh masks used in this centuries-old theatrical art form. The hotel is also home to the city’s only hotel Noh stage (at top), a beautiful, minimalist timber structure wreathed by bamboo (although I was sad to hear that performances are very few and far between).

Travellers can also enjoy a private kōdō ceremony at the tranquil Sennyū-ji Temple, where they’ll discover the ancient Japanese art of incense, a fitting activity for such a haven of serenity in one of Japan’s most sought-after destinations.