KAI Poroto, on Hokkaido’s east coast, offers travellers a blissful immersion into Japanese nature and onsen culture.

Sometimes it’s nice to stay in the thick of things, and sometimes it’s nice to escape. If you’re Hokkaido bound, and looking to do the latter, you can’t miss the opportunity to commune with nature at KAI Poroto, the 19th hotel of acclaimed Japanese hotel group Hoshino Resorts.

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So it’s an onsen?

Yes, one in thoroughly modern, design-driven clothing, but that doesn’t mean it’s forgotten its hot spring traditions. In fact, tradition and culture run through every aspect of this modern ryokan, which opened in 2022, from its breathtaking hot spring baths (his and hers) perched on the banks of Lake Poroto, to its architecture, inspired by the region’s Ainu community. You’ll come here to soak, to think, to walk, to breathe, and to slow down – it’s not for everyone, but for those who need a change of pace, it’s exactly what the doctor ordered.

Tell us about the springs

Shiraoi Onsen, named for the nearby hamlet, has long been recognised for its organic minerality, derived from plants. The two natural moor spring-fed Sankaku-no-yu onsen baths are housed in a dramatic cone-shaped cathedral-like ketunni building by architect Hiroshi Nakamura, and each leads out to the lake’s edge, from where bathers can watch sunrise over the forests of the Poroto Natural Recreation Forest, which wreaths the lake, or constellations and satellites by night as they soak on the skin rejuvenating waters. I made my way down to the baths at 5 am on a very crisp winter morning, made my way to the outside area, and soaked to my heart’s content until the sun peeked above the horizon.

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Alternatively, if you’re all done with the great outdoors, head for the Maru-no-yu baths, housed within the main building under a dramatic dome with an oculus. First timers can join the daily onsen briefing before taking a dip (although during our visit the language barrier proved a little too broad to cross).

How about the rooms?

While both Japanese and Western suites are available, all with stunning lake vistas, if private bathing is more your thing, be sure to book ahead for one of the rooms with its own semi-outdoor bath. Our Western-style Signature room (or Shikaku-no-ma) is spacious and minimalist, with a huge picture window framing the glory of nature beyond.

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Inspired by the cise, a type of Ainu dwelling, there are twin beds set on a traditional platform, a U-shaped couch and a flat-screen television, Ainu motifs and fabric patterns, and sets of freshly pressed yukata robes laid out that many guests wear throughout their stay.

Tell us about the dining

Meals (even breakfast) are all kaiseki, traditional multi-course affairs where the fresh locally sourced ingredients are allowed to express themselves in elegant, artistic dishes – think Japanese pepper wrapped in duck meat; grilled conger eel and burdock with deep-fried bean curd; and fried tilefish marinated in spicy vinegar sauce.

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Meals, which can be paired with a selection of Japanese beers and sakes, are served in a rather austere dining room made up of individual timber cubicles and can take quite a while to get through, with set meal times at 5.30 and 7 pm. It can be a little reserved, so be sure to travel with someone whose company you simply can’t get enough of!

What to do when you’re done soaking?

The hotel offers a series of activities ranging from early morning callisthenics to kotan gathering, during which guests make traditional Ainu amulets (above), designed to ward off evil spirits, from freshly picked herbs. There’s also an evening ‘happy hour’ during which you can try local spirits around the resort’s lobby fireplace. A little frustratingly, this experience is only available at a set time, and strangely only one drink can be purchased during these rather rigid sessions.

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However, the main drawcard here is the hotel’s proximity to the acclaimed Upopoy National Ainu Museum (below), which opened in 2020 as a showcase of Ainu culture and history.

Summary

A beautiful and serene hideaway set in one of the island’s most beautiful landscapes, KAI Poroto is a heavenly respite but one that until recently has been geared to the domestic market. However, guests that go with a mind open to new cultures, ideas and experiences will discover an experience immersed in authenticity and tranquility, and that’s what counts!