Nestled on what is arguably the best beach on the island, St. Regis Resort Bali combines old-world luxury with plenty of authentic local touches.

Part of the sprawling, manicured Nusa Dua tourism complex in the island’s south, St. Regis Resort Bali is a marque resort that has built a loyal following with travellers from across the globe, thanks to its sublime accommodations, world-class dining, verdant grounds and crisp yet intuitive service. First impressions will leave you with the age-old adage: They just don’t build ‘em like this anymore.

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We’re greeted in the soaring marble-lined lobby and are quickly escorted downstairs to a lower floor where a golf buddy awaits to whisk us to our one-bedroom Lagoon Villa, where the rest of the check-in formalities are completed with military-like precision.

The Room

If you’re going to stay at the St. Regis, it’s worth splurging a little on a lagoon villa, because it’s this breathtaking, meandering waterway, which passes through the centre of the expansive resort, that really sets the property apart from the many others in Nusa Dua. Dressed in gleaming dark timber, our villa, one of 41, opens into a main dining and living room, beyond which is a sizeable master bedroom, a private garden-wreathed sun deck, a plunge pool and a shaded sala. You’ll quickly notice the discrete path that winds around a weathered Hindu shrine directly into the waters of the expansive saltwater lagoon.

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There’s a blissfully private, residential feel throughout the space, from the shelves lined with books, walls bedecked with Balinese art and overflowing bowls of tropical fruit, to the chandelier perched beneath the bedroom’s vaulted ceiling. The bathroom, lined in honey-hued marble, boasts indoor and outdoor showers, a walk-in dressing room and a seductive standalone bathtub. Villas also feature butler’s pantries, handy for travellers with their own staff or who are looking to dine or entertain in their villa.

That said, the resort also features more conventional guest rooms and suites, as well as breathtaking beach villas with private entrances directly onto the sand. There are also two-room villas in both beach and lagoon categories that are ideal for travelling families.

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Facilities

As mentioned, many of the villas at the St. Regis are clustered around its expansive lagoon, which, if you’re like me, you’ll find yourself floating down multiple times a day. There’s also another pool located at the beach, where an intimate pool bar looks out to a near-endless strip of perfectly white sand and rows of private sun lounges.

There’s also a boutique and a children’s learning centre for little ones aged 4-12 (kids will also love the evening fire dances and torch lighting ceremony), while a visit to the resort’s comprehensive herb garden is a must – you can learn about the ingredients used in traditional Balinese cuisine, and the healing herbal teas that have been used on the island for millennia.

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Wellness

Talking of wellness, St. Regis Resort Bali’s popular Iridium Spa is 2,800 sqm of bliss, complete with 12 treatment spaces, aromatherapy steam rooms, a beauty salon and a schedule of holistic activities ranging from conventional and stand-up paddle yoga to aqua aerobics.

Even if you’re not up for treatment – the signature Bloody Mary-inspired wellness ritual is a 150-minute journey that includes a zingy tomato, pineapple and wasabi body scrub and vodka and tomato clay wrap – you must leave time for a visit to the outdoor hydrotherapy area, where jets of warm water will turn you into metaphorical melted butter. There’s also a modern fitness centre for those looking to burn off all the indulgence to come.

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Dining

Dining is something St. Regis does well – very well – with a venue for every appetite. Start your days at the vibrant Boneka Restaurant, home to one of the island’s best breakfasts, with both buffet and a la carte options tapping into both European and Indonesian gastronomic persuasions. Then mark sunset at the elegant St. Regis Bar, with its outdoor patio the perfect perch from which to watch that nightly fire dance (the signature Bloody Mary – the Red Snapper – captures the essence of Bali with Absolut Peppar vodka, apply jicama, hydrating cucumber and a mix of characterful local spices).

For an authentic touch of Balinese cuisine and culture, you can’t go past the intimate Dulang Restaurant, where Balinese dancers serenade guests as they explore the island’s ancient gastronomic heritage, complete with a dedicated sambal trolley. There’s also the Gourmand Deli for sun-kissed, family-friendly casual lunches, and the Vista Bar at the beach for light bites and indulgent cocktails.

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However, for me, the crowning glory is reserved for Kayuputi (above), the resort’s acclaimed fine-dining restaurant, where executive chef Agung Gede’s take on pan-Asian cuisine, paired with an enviable wine selection and crisp, intuitive service and set against soaring ceilings and colonial decor, excites the palates of in-house guests and visitors alike. Highlights of the coveted degustation menu include Jembrana mud crab with flat dumplings, ginger flower and laksa spices; and Sumberkima coral trout paired with zucchini, kombu and a rich black ink sauce.