Perched high above the Indian Ocean, the recently opened Umana Bali is Southeast Asia’s first property for Hilton’s LXR brand.
For Bali-bound travellers, the newest arrival from the Hilton hotel group combines luxury with plenty of fascinating cultural touch points.
So what is an LXR resort?
Essentially this is the Hilton group’s collection of independent hotels and resorts, so expect plenty of individuality and personality. Each property features its own enchanting pedigree, story and character that is steeped in the originality of its locale and provides a luxurious base of exploration for the intrigued yet discerning adventurer.
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In Umana’s case, that’s a design drawn from Balinese Tri Hita Karana philosophy and its three pillars, nature, people and spirituality, in which each unique experience is inspired by traditional Balinese culture, then developed for today’s guests.
First impressions?
Located above Melasi Beach, Umana is a classic Balinese resort, complete with verdant manicured gardens and a breath-taking lobby populated by cultural narratives, from the chandelier inspired by the Balinese Legong fan dance, contemporary sculptures of Balinese dancers adorned with ancient coins to a ceiling structure designed to mimic the hanging branches of a banyan tree. The views from the lounge here are mesmerising, and you can slip into the adjacent Mer Lounge wine cellar for a guided tasting of Bali-produced vinos.
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What are the villas like?
Perched on the island’s southernmost tip at Ungasan, Umana Bali boasts stunning ocean views from most of its 72 luxurious, WATG | Wimberly Interiors-created villas, which start from 403 sqm and cascade down to limestone cliffs in a form that’s reminiscent of uma, or ancient rice paddy fields, hence the resort’s name.
Our one-bedroom villa is spacious, contemporary and beautifully appointed and includes a sizeable living room, kitchenette, a master bedroom, a massive glass-lined bathroom with a soak tub, a dressing room and inside and outside showers. The living room and bedroom both open onto a private plunge pool, jacuzzi, sun deck and shaded sala with sea views. In keeping with the cultural influences, expect unique pieces of art, locally sourced materials like Javanese marble and rattan; and eco-friendly amenities, including vanity kits made from recycled banana leaf paper, coconut shell boxes, and natural slippers woven from pandan and mendong fibres.
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My only niggle would be that despite its soft opening taking place in November 2023, there is still construction taking place in March throughout the resort, including in the row of villas directly in front of ours, meaning plenty of construction noise and workers just below our pool. However, that should be done in time for the official opening this month.
How about dining?
There’s plenty to sate appetites, including Oliverra, a speciality Mediterranean restaurant on the cliff’s edges with a cocktail bar and an outdoor patio and a refined main dining room with interiors straight out of a Greek dreamscape (although the exteriors were showing plenty of wear and tear). While the food was fresh, flavourful and innovative (Umana Bali sources more than 80% of its produce from local farms and its own hydroponic herb and vegetable garden), we were disappointed that the outdoor tables were yet to open officially. Also, be aware of your drink choices – the US$22 margaritas are among the most expensive on the island but aren’t its best.
Breakfasts are a leisurely triumph and take place at Commune, which showcases the best flavours of Indonesia with a brilliant buffet and a la carte list (be sure to return for lunch or dinner and the signature babi guling). It also offers fascinating cooking classes in an adjacent kitchen.
How about facilities?
The resort has a spectacular infinity pool, which seems rarely used as most guests prefer their private plunge pools; and a modern fitness centre. Also, leave time for a visit to the expansive Lohma Spa complex (the property used to be a Banyan Tree), where sound healing sessions help calm the body and mind, and signature massages take place in luxurious wellness suites. There’s also a striking contemporary chapel for clifftop weddings against sunset hues, as well as beautiful event spaces, and a dynamic kids’ club.
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What we loved
The staff are mainly Balinese, which means plenty of smiles and a can-do attitude that resonates throughout. The star gazing from the plunge pool is nothing short of exceptional.
What we didn’t
The only time we met our ‘curator’, or personal concierge, was at check-in and instead, we got daily WhatsApp messages from a bot using a US phone number enquiring about our stay by asking for a ranking between 1 and 10.
