We talk culinary collaborations and fine-dining in paradise with Gaetan Christopher Biesuz, Director of Culinary, Raffles Bali.
Passionate yet humble, not only is Gaetan Christopher Biesuz one of Bali’s leading chefs but he’s Alsop a sought after collaborator, and has led the resort to its position as one of the island’s most coveted dining destinations.
You joined the hospitality scene as a teenager; tell us about those early days, and where you always destined to cook?
Since a young age, I have been surrounded by my family, with food and wine. My grandma, who used to be a chef, gave me the inspiration to become a chef myself. Paella is the first thing I learned how to make with her, and since then, paella has remained with me.
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You served in the French military – is army food really as bad as they say?
Ah, yes, I served in the Army but chose to stay away from the kitchen during that time and learn something different, which allowed me to enjoy the food at the officer’s canteen rather than at the soldier’s canteen. It was very basic and repetitive.
You’ve worked in the US, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and have been in Bali almost five years; what does such a multicultural experience lend to your culinary style?
First, this multi-experience taught me how to be flexible, patient, and resourceful. Second, I was able to discover an array of ingredients, spices, and flavours that were new to my repertoire, whereas the US was, for the most part, more similar to Europe, with the exception of Miami where I discovered the Latin flavour.
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Tell us about the dining experiences available to guests at the Raffles Bali.
The dining experience at Raffles Bali has been curated since before the opening. We aimed to deliver a truly unique experience through various dining destinations and our restaurants, ensuring that guests staying for a week would have a wide array of choices. The Secret Cave is inspired by underground ingredients, Purnama Honeymoon Bale by the ocean and sea, Farm Terrace by seasonal offerings from the farm, In-Villa Barbecue offers casual dinner with a private chef in the villa, and the Private Dining Room offers Omakase-style dining based on guest preferences and seasonality. In addition to our two restaurants, which offer entirely different ambiance and menus.
As Culinary Director you oversee everything from fine dining to room service. How are the expectations of diners at luxury resorts changing and how do you maintain the momentum to meet those needs?
It’s important to be receptive and attentive to every guest. Our primary focus is consistently using premium-grade ingredients with care and respect. Whether it’s fine dining, casual dining, or room service, the standard of quality remains constant. Discerning luxury travellers appreciate excellence, so it’s imperative that we deliver excellence in whatever they order.
You recently welcomed chef Paulo Airaudo to Rumari as part of the restaurant’s exclusive four-hand Rumari & Friends dinner series. What inspired this collaboration and what can you tell us about this luxurious occasion?
When I planned for chef Paulo (below) from Restaurant Amelia to come over to collaborate, it was a natural progression for my team and myself. They hold two Michelin stars in San Sebastian, and it was a fantastic opportunity we wanted to share with our guests and my team, giving them the chance to learn from a chef like Paulo. The food philosophy, flavours, and style were a great match for us to align with and continue our own progression to a higher level.
How do collaborations like this benefit the culinary team as well as the dining public?
There are two sides to the collaboration. First, for our guests and repeat visitors, we aim to create a series of chef collaborations, offering them the unique opportunity to experience various chefs from different culinary backgrounds without having to travel to their destinations.
Second, for my team and myself, it’s extremely important to continue the growth of our team and the evolution of our restaurant. We are thankful for the opportunity to share our cuisine with such fantastic chefs, where we can learn new flavours, techniques, and plating styles. This collaboration serves as a great way to assess our work alongside the guest chef.
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With a plethora of openings across the island, what’s the dining scene like in Bali these days?
The evolution of Bali’s restaurant scene is moving upward. For a long time, visitors may have considered Bali as a budget-friendly destination. However, with the opening of new, high-quality restaurants, we can feel the perception starting to shift towards valuing quality over low cost.
Raffles Bali is Indonesia’s first Krug Ambassade
We’ve heard that sourcing can be a challenge in Indonesia; is that changing and how do you overcome this? Are you incorporating much locally sourced produce into your menus?
Importation processes in Indonesia are still complex and changing slowly. However, it is part of our DNA to collaborate with local farmers, producers, and fishermen, which means we embrace the natural variations and whims of nature. Fortunately, working with a lower volume of guests enables us to engage with very small farmers or use line-caught fish. This is a significant privilege, as freshness cannot be surpassed.
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What’s something local you’re currently experimenting with?
With my team, we engage in consistent research and experimentation without straying too far, as we believe it’s important for guests to clearly understand the ingredients we use.
Sustainability is something we’re increasingly learning about – how is this philosophy being adopted at the resort?
From day 1, sustainability has been ingrained in our DNA. Everything we have put in place aligns with this principle. Our guests will never encounter any plastic, and all our supply chains are crystal clear; we know the origin of each ingredient. Additionally, we have our own compost station for all organic waste. We also collaborate with the SOS Association to donate any leftover food that is still suitable for the surrounding community. Our resort features an average of 80% of ingredients sourced from the Indonesian archipelago.
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What’s one dish you can’t leave the Raffles without trying?
Ah, so many, from morning to evening, Jimbaran Bouillabaisse in Loloan, or Croffle for breakfast, and the signature Brebes Duck egg in Rumari menu.
What are some of the up-coming culinary events at Raffles Bali we should be looking out for?
Next to come will be chef Jordan from Butcher Block in Singapore. Then it will be our time to go to Singapore at the beginning of May to bring Rumari cuisine to Singapore. At the end of May, we will welcome chef Christian Bau from the three Michelin star restaurant Victor’s Fine Dining in Germany. Stay tuned for what the rest of the year has in store.
