Showcasing Portuguese cuisine, The Yeatman Gastronomic restaurant, helmed by executive chef Ricardo Costa, is one of only seven restaurants in Portugal with two Michelin stars.

Located in the historic heart of Vila Nova de Gaia next to the ancient ‘lodges’ where Port houses have aged their wines for more than three centuries, Porto’s wine hotel The Yeatman, is a wine lover’s dream.

READ: Shisui, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Opens in Nara

With wine-themed suites and spa treatments, the hotel’s star F&B turn, The Yeatman Gastronomic Restaurant serves up a contemporary take on the country’s fish and seafood and was awarded a second Michelin star back in 2017 for its efforts. While the tasting menu of a dozen or so courses is constantly changing, the signature suckling pig dish is a closely-guarded secret recipe, and is celebrated for its intensely crispy skin, while the spider crab is playfully served in a crab-shaped dish with menacingly huge pincers.

Before his 13-year stint at The Yeatman, Costa was executive chef at Largo do Paço at the Casa da Calçada hotel in Amarante, which earned a Michelin Star in 2009 and 2010 under his stewardship.

READ: Five Reasons to Fall in Love with Kanazawa, Japan

You’ve been executive chef at The Yeatman since 2010. What’s been the biggest change at the Gastronomic Restaurant in the last 13 years?

I think several changes contributed to the evolution we’ve seen since the hotel opened in 2010. In 2013, we decided to implement one tasting menu, and this increased our quality and consistency a great deal. Then, in 2015, we closed the Gastronomic Restaurant at lunchtime and opened a second restaurant, The Orangerie, to serve lunch and dinner daily. In 2020, we decided to close the Gastronomic Restaurant on Sundays and Mondays. The overall benefits have given us greater focus and service consistency.

The restaurant earned two Michelin stars in 2017. Were you expecting the accolade or did it come as a surprise?

I believed we could win the additional star, partly due to the decisions we’d made, like opening The Orangerie. Once again, quality and consistency are fundamental. I think that after living with the second star for a few years, we’re ready for the third one.

How have diners’ attitudes changed in the past year or so, and how are you responding to that with your menus?

The profile of the clients we have is very consistent and we’re able to understand and anticipate their expectations. A luxury gastronomic dining experience involves being aware of expectations but also being able to surpass them, surprising with our quality, standards and the whole experience.

READ: Explore Japan’s Coast Glory on the Buna Train

You’re famous for championing Portuguese produce. What ingredients and produce do you most like to cook with and why?

I like to cook fish and seafood for its freshness and that distinct sea flavour, but I also really like other products such as our olive oil (it’s made by The Yeatman’s wine producers, Symington Family Estates, which owns the Quinta do Vesuvio vineyard) and fleur de sel, which I consider as precious as white gold.

Chefs and kitchens are taking sustainability increasingly seriously. What does sustainability mean to you and how do you incorporate eco-friendly practices in your kitchen?

This has been a major concern of mine for many years. Using local and seasonal products is very important and we’ve always integrated them into our menus. Fortunately, we have a wide range of suppliers with amazing products and our cuisine is a strong reflection of these concerns. I also cook using less fat, sugar and flour and my cuisine is delicate and light, which is also more sustainable.

Which chefs have most inspired you throughout your career?

Joachim Koerper, who I worked with at El Girasol, was a major inspiration for me. For the past few years, chef Dieter Koschina of Vila Joya has also been very important for chefs of my generation. Both set an example for younger chefs.

READ: Putting the WOW Into Porto

Largo do Paço earned a Michelin star in 2009 with you at the helm. To what extent did that help put you on the map in the culinary world?

The first star was very important for my career as it opened lots of doors for me. There was also a lot of media attention as a result. At the time, there were very few chefs with Michelin stars in Portugal. I was the youngest Portuguese chef to win a star.

What food trends are you noticing in 2023/2024 and how are you responding to those?

I think the major food trends are vegetarianism, and the significant reduction of animal protein as well as fat and sugar and an increase in vegetables.

What do you like to cook, or eat, when you’re off duty?

I like to barbecue, or cook grilled sardines, caldeirada (fish stew) and suckling pig. 

What is your earliest food memory?

Definitely my mother’s flan pudding.

READ: Regent Seven Seas Adds New Culinary Adventures

Where do you like to eat out in Porto when you’re not in the kitchen?

Cafe Offline, not far from The Yeatman, is a great place to go. It’s famous for its steak sandwiches, which are served with cheese, ham, mustard and a spicy sauce.

How will the menu at the Yeatman continue to evolve?

I think it will become even more sophisticated and more interactive, so we can get closer to our guests.