Nick Walton reveals some of his favourite enclaves, precincts and neighbourhoods in the timeless city of Istanbul.
Anyone who has visited will testify that there simply is no city in the world like Istanbul. Nestled at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, the Turkish city seamlessly weaves the tapestry of its rich history with the vibrancy of modern life and it reveals its many personas through its vibrant and often eclectic neighbourhoods.
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Beyoğlu: Istanbul’s Bohemian Haven
Beyoğlu is a district that breathes the soul of Istanbul. This vibrant neighbourhood has long been a magnet for luminaries like Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk and renowned poet Yahya Kemal Beyatlı, and unfolds along the iconic İstiklal Avenue, a bustling thoroughfare that traces its roots back to the Byzantine era. The district’s allure lies in its eclectic architecture, where neoclassical and Art Nouveau buildings stand shoulder to shoulder, housing a rich tapestry of stories.
Probably the most visited part of Istanbul, Beyoğlu includes sprawling Taksim Square; and Galata, with its medieval charm standing as a testament to the richly layered past of Turkey – also known today as Türkiye. Nestled on the northern bank of the Golden Horn (the primary inlet of the Bosphorus) the district has long attracted merchants, writers, and thinkers – 13th century poet and mystic Rumi spent time here – and you can learn about their influence on Turkish culture at the Galata Mevlevihanesi Museum, before delving into the Antique Bazaar in search of hidden gems.
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Alternatively, climb the Galata Tower, once an important watchtower, or tap into the city’s vintage fashion scene on Serdar-ı Ekrem street before rewarding yourself for your bartering skills with the iconic cheesecake at nearby Viyana Kahvesi, which comes with a decadent milk chocolate sauce.
Beyoğlu is also a popular nightlife destination with much of the action centred around the precinct of Çukurcuma. Moretenders’ Cocktail Crib is a great spot for a cold cocktail served alfresco while Pera Antakya, just off Istiklal Avenue, is home to brilliantly modern takes on Turkish classic cuisine.
Eminonu: Gateway to the Past
Another fascinating corner of Istanbul steeped in history, and one that’s enjoyed more than its fair share of big screen cameos, Eminonu is a district where the past seamlessly intertwines with the present. One of the most vibrant precincts of Istanbul and key to the port city’s fortunes during the Byzantine period, Eminonu was the heart of old Constantinople and remains the gateway to the Bosphorus, as well as the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace up the hill in Sultanahmet (more on that later).
With its skyline dominated by the beautiful Süleymaniye Mosque, the neighbourhood is connected to Galata by bridge and is a major public transport hub, making it easy to reach from anywhere in the city.
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You’ll come to Eminonu for the views of Galata and the mosques but mainly for the chaotic yet enticing Spice Markets (below), which were built in 1660 to sell goods transported overland from Egypt (hence the name in Turkish, Mısır Çarşısı or Egyptian Bazaar). Here you’ll find more than 80 shops selling locally-produced jewellery alongside Turkish delight laced with Iranian pomegranate, blended teas from Kashmir, dried fruit from Lebanon, freshly ground coffee from Ethiopia, and of course, every spice you could throw a pestle and mortar at.
Afterwards, sate your appetite with a balık ekmek, one of the traditional fish sandwiches served in the casual restaurants perched below the Galata Bridge.
Sultanahmet: Mosques & More
Nestled within the beating heart of Istanbul, Sultanahmet stands as a living testament to the city’s grand and often turbulent history. Arguably the city’s busiest area, especially during the spring and summer months, the district – once known as Constantinople and one of the world’s great ancient capitals – beckons travellers with its cobbled streets and majestic domes.
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Here you’ll find the Blue Mosque (below), officially the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, which was built between 1609 and 1617, and the acclaimed Hagia Sophia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site completed in 537 AD that enchants with its massive dome and intricate mosaics. There’s also the Topkapi Palace, once the residence of Ottoman sultans and a labyrinth of opulent chambers and sprawling courtyards, and the fascinating Basilica Cistern, the largest Roman-era subterranean cistern in the city. Even if you buy VIP entry tickets, expect to battle the long lines and crowds at all of these sites, but it will be character building for when you delve into the Grand Bazaar.
One of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, the Grand Bazaar is a neighbourhood all its own, with 61 covered streets and more than 4,000 shops selling everything from homewares and wedding dresses to beaten silver, carpets, ceramics, leather goods, silks, stunning jewellery and almost everything else you could imagine.
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Not one for the faint hearted, the markets can get very busy (it was named the most visited tourist attraction in the world in 2014) but take it slow, keep the GPS handy and immerse yourself in the timeless trade. The Turkish shopkeepers pride themselves on their traditional hospitality so pull up a perch, share some Turkish coffee, and haggle for your favourite finds.
Kadikoy: The Asian Gem
Positioned on the Asian side of Istanbul, Kadikoy is a lively district that beckons with its eclectic mix of trendy boutiques, artisanal cafes, and dynamic street life. Connected to the European side by ferries that provide a scenic journey across the Bosphorus, Kadikoy offers a unique perspective of Istanbul’s skyline.
The neighbourhood lies on the eastern shore, directly opposite Istanbul’s historic peninsula and offers a more contemporary facet to the city, one traditionally popular with artists and intellectuals that now attracts students and younger visitors looking for bargains in the affordable clothing boutiques, vintage stalls, bookstores and discounted cosmetic shops.
Grab a ferry from Eminonu to Kadikoy’s bustling waterfront, popular with buskers looking to be discovered, then ride the ornate red tram up the hill to Osmanağa, past the iconic bull statue, to Gen. Asım Gündüz, the most popular shopping street, is home to cool cafes and bistros like Tasarim Bookshop Café and Helvacı Ali, and a brilliantly welcoming vibe.
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Once you’ve given the credit card a workout, pick up a traditional snack at famed local bakery Inci Patisserie (its burma kadyaif with pistachios is to die for) for your ride back down the hill – or better yet, let gravity guide you down through pretty residential streets to Kadikoy Festival Park, a great spot for sunset. If you have time, catch a performance at the Süreyya Opera House or tap into the local foodscape at Çiya Sofrası, known for its diverse Anatolian cuisine.
Karakoy: Nightlife Central
Not to be confused with Karikoy on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, Karakoy is a gritty yet welcoming nightlife hub just below Galata and one that embodies the juxtaposition of old and new, blending historic architecture with a burgeoning contemporary art scene. As a bustling commercial district that’s seen significant gentrification, it exudes an energetic vibe that captivates visitors and locals alike.
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Karakoy is strategically positioned at the northern end of the Galata Bridge, overlooking the entrance to the Golden Horn and was once home to legendary Ottoman-era architect Sinan, whose influence is still visible in the area’s architectural marvels. Karakoy is also a haven for art enthusiasts, with numerous galleries showcasing both local and international talent, chief among them the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, which first opened on the waterfront in 2004 as Turkey’s first museum for modern and contemporary art.
After a five-year hiatus, the new and improved Istanbul Modern recently reopened its doors in a spectacular building by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano. The Istanbul Museum of Painting and Sculpture is also just steps away.
However, Karakoy is best known for its bars and restaurants, with crowds descending on its fairy-lit alleyways each night for cloudy thimbles of raki, a local aniseed liquor, and plates of steaming midyecisi , mussels stuffed with black squid ink rice.
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There are venues for everyone here, from crowd friendly pubs – the best are found along Nevizade, a narrow lane lined with meyhanes or taverns – to contemporary kitchens like Karaköy Brasserie, home to French riffs on classic Turkish dishes, and a host of luxurious new spots at the cruise terminal, including Roka Istanbul and Vandal Galataport. Finish the night off at Finn, a seductive cocktail bar that serves up sublime mixes laced with homemade syrups and infusions. Alternatively, head to Skull & Bones, which is famed for its extensive gin selection.
Balat: A Kaleidoscope of Colours
With its vibrant facades and narrow alleys, Balat is a visual feast that captures the essence of Istanbul’s cultural diversity as it’s played home to Jewish, Greek, Armenian and, more recently, Kurdish communities.Renowned for its colourful houses, eclectic antique shops, and authentic local life, Balat, which is located a short tram ride from Galata, is a photographer’s dream and a haven for those seeking off-the-beaten-path experiences.
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The city’s latest emerging destination, Balat has enjoyed gentrification (some at the hands of UNESCO) without losing its rustic, homely vibe and is now home to hip cafes and cutting-edge galleries, which rub shoulders with weathered synagogues, Greek basilica and Byzantine churches.
Arrive early to skip the crowds of Instagrammers clambering for selfies in front of the rainbow-hued houses of Kiremit Street, on the neighbourhood’s narrow cobbled streets and on the umbrella-shrouded laneway of Renkli Merdivenler, and, after a robust Turkish coffee at Cafe Naftalin K, visit the Chora Museum, famed for its golden mosaics.
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Next, grab a bite at Köşem Pastanesi – home to some of the best baklavas in the city – and delve into the tiny jewellery and curio shops, many located in century-old tenement basements and dilapidated Ottoman-era mansions. Later, soak in the street art before dining on authentic Kurdish dishes at the newly-opened Gold Balat Restaurant.
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