Cruising may not be for everyone but travellers looking to take their time while enjoying the finer things of life shouldn’t pass up a chance to travel with Regent Cruises.
It’s that witching hour in Bali where the blazing tropical light of day mellows at the edges and then seems to implode upon itself in a peach and violet explosion, to the wonder of visitors assembled along its world-famous beaches. Down at the cruise terminal in Benoa, the regal white ocean liner Seven Seas Explorer slips her lines and, flanked by a pair of sprightly tugs, begins the first league of our journey, one that will take us from the exoticism of Southeast Asia all the way down through crocodile-infested waters and vibrant coral seas to the most dynamic city of Australia.
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The communities that flank the volcanic peaks of Bali’s east coast fade into darkness and then return as low-slung constellations as we steam calm seas north. We bid them farewell from the balcony of our suite with a glass of Monopole Blue Label champagne, which our always-smiling, super-efficient, Energizer Bunny steward Shannen prepared on ice before our arrival.
It’s my partner Angela’s first cruise and my first with Regent, and I was a little concerned that this particular style of travel wouldn’t be in her well-house, if you’ll excuse the deliberate nautical pun. While cruising has its die-hard fans, who book voyages years in advance, it’s certainly not for everyone.
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After all, what is cruising? At no time in the cruise industry’s history has this been harder to answer. Whereas once ‘cruising’, as we now know it, consisted of ocean liners crossing the great seas with classes to suit all of humanity, today there’s more choice than ever. There are the hardy expedition ships, each contributing to making the world a little smaller with each voyage and each new destination. There are specialist river vessels plying ancient waterways that interlace some of the world’s most important capitals, and there’s mega ships, carrying thousands of travellers and offering them a barrage of attractions on and off the water. There’s even a fleet – most still in construction – of floating five-star hotels brought to you by very familiar names in the hospitality trade.
Regent Suite
And then there’s Regent, which lies somewhere at the centre of the cruising universe. Its ships aren’t exactly small although they lack the crowds, shopping malls, ice skating rinks, and climbing walls of the big boys. Its destinations are varied and fascinating but are by no means expeditionary. Its hold is a familiar hotel brand name but has since moved on, forging its own identity, one punctuated by an indulgent, all-inclusive experience complemented by crisp, intelligent service (and a near 1:1 crew to guest ratio), and insightful excursions at its ports of call. The line has also played its own part in introducing cruising to a younger (although not ‘young’ per se) demographic, enabling many more travellers to embark on their first voyage, as Angela has.
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A Floating Mansion
I’ll freely admit, I love cruising, the ability to settle in, unpack once, and wake to a new destination every day – well, almost every day. Cruising is a great way to meet people, see new places, and claim the kind of holiday you need. Want to relax? You could spend the entire cruise on your balcony with a good book or in the jacuzzi with a cocktail. Keen to dance the night away? You’ll quickly find kindred spirits.
Superior Suite
Regent knows this and knows the elements that its guests enjoy, time and time again – good food, great service, sublime staterooms and penthouses, and a little destinational variety thrown in for good measure. In short, this is luxury sea travel at its very best.
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When she was launched, Regent Cruises’ 375-suite Seven Seas Explorer was dubbed the most luxurious ship ever built and only a handful of years later, she continues to live up to that heady moniker. Built at a cost of US$450 million, the 750-passenger ship is a floating mansion, a surprisingly intimate environment (despite having one of the highest space-to-passenger ratios on the market) of custom-made sculptures and chandeliers, a soaring atrium, sumptuous dining venues, lavish public spaces, and spacious staterooms, all complimented by a 2,500-piece art collection that includes works by Chagall and Picasso and by a crew that genuinely loves what they do.
Explorers Lounge
Our 31 sqm Superior Suite on deck eight, one of 228 on the ship, is nothing short of remarkable. Capacious yet intelligently designed and beautifully appointed, the residential-styled space is dominated by a large king-size bed facing a broad balcony with comfortable wicker armchairs. A flatscreen television faces a sofa and coffee table that later doubles as a dining space for leisurely in-suite breakfasts, while a beauty table with plenty of storage helps us manage our belongings. The walk-in wardrobe is bigger than some apartments I’ve had, while the bathroom, with its separate shower and deep soak tub (itself with a second shower head, perfect for tardy couples like us who are always in a rush), twin vanities, and marble accents is probably the largest I’ve seen at sea. These elements really give you a sense of Regent Cruises’ position in the realm of luxury cruising. There is simply nothing like it.
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Refreshed, unpacked, and already in cruise mode, we descend to the ship’s beautiful atrium, with its elegantly-curving staircases, to start rubbing shoulders with the guests we will be cruising with for the next 17 days. At the Explorer Lounge on deck 4, adjacent to the ship’s casino and the elegant Compass Rose restaurant, we quickly befriend Balinese bartender Gusti, who makes a mean dirty martini and is never short of a smile.
Compass Rose
A Cruise Line for Lovers of Creature Comforts
Bars are something that Regent Cruises in general and Seven Seas Explorer in particular does well – very well. In addition to the Explorer Lounge there’s the Meridian Lounge on deck 5, home to brilliant riffs on the classic gin and tonic using craft spirits and intriguing ingredients; the Pool Bar on deck 11, the heart of daytime action, especially on sea days; the expansive Observation Lounge, a great spot for pre-dinner tipples and views of the bow; and the intimate Connoisseurs Club, a special space for premium whiskies, cognacs and cigars.
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Talking of dining, while Regent’s sister line, Oceania, has positioned itself as the foodie cruise line, Regent stands in no one’s shadow. Seven Seas Explorer boasts six restaurants; Compass Rose is as close to the conventional cruise ship dining room as you’ll find but even then, maintains the service levels and elegance you would expect from most line’s signature restaurants and becomes one of our favourite evening spots.
Observation Lounge
The ship also boasts specialty restaurants that are included in the fare but require reservations. Prime 7, with its dark, sophisticated utterly New York décor, is a classic steakhouse where the surf ‘n’ turf is a ticket straight to heaven, while Pacific Rim introduces a showcase of dynamic flavours and dishes from across Southeast Asia – think pink tiger prawns in sriracha, garlic and kaffir lime sauce; and Canadian lobster tempura with ponzu dipping sauce. Chartreuse is the ship’s intimate French restaurant, where dishes like dover sole with lemon and capers; and seared Barbary duck breast with candied morello cherries are served with military-like precision.
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Leisurely breakfasts and lunches are served in the light filled La Veranda, with its expansive terrace at the stern of the ship; the space turns into Sette Mari at La Veranda by night, a casual Italian hotspot, while the action during sea days is at the Pool Grill, where thematic menus enable guests to sample the flavours of the destination – including on our cruise kangaroo burgers and crocodile tempura. Finally, Coffee Connection, on deck 5, is a lively coffee shop that serves snacks and great brewed beverages throughout the day.
Regent Cruises offers included and unlimited excursions, including to Darwin’s jumping crocodiles.
From Komodo to Darwin
Our itinerary to Sydney is a mix of shore days and more than a few sea days, which I think is a nice balance as it lets you dedicate days to complete relaxation without the FOMO. After two days on north Bali’s sun-kissed but sleepy coast, and another visiting neighbouring Lombok, we’re welcomed to Komodo National Park by a pod of common dolphins and spend a morning with the dragons on one of the line’s included and unlimited excursions, with the world’s largest lizards living up to their fearsome, tongue-flicking reputation. In Darwin, after crossing the Timor Sea, there’s also time to cruise the Adelaide River to see its ‘jumping’ crocodiles and magnificent birds of prey.
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Unfortunately, Cyclone Jasper hits Cairns the day before we arrive, meaning plans to explore the Great Barrier Reef are dashed as flooding inundates the town and foul weather plagues us down the coast. However, by the time we arrive in Brisbane, the sun returns in time for a city tour, and in Newcastle we venture into the famed Hunter Valley wine belt for small-group wine tastings – another included foray – at some of the leading boutique wineries.
Fitness Centre
However, I find sea days to be equally enjoyable. While the selection of activities offered by the entertainment staff is a little too retirement home for me (needle point anyone?) there’s plenty to do, from paddle tennis and mini golf, to the ship classic, shuffleboard, where competitive personas are encouraged.
Sea Days & Formal Nights
If the cocktail bars, with their chilled martinis and non-judgemental bartenders, are my indulgence, then the ship’s state-of-the-art fitness centre is my confession box and early morning yoga sessions my contrition. Laying down our mats and concentrating on our breathing I’m soon groaning and bowing like a sapling in a tempest while Angela has already contorted herself into something resembling the Microsoft Word paperclip, smile and all.
The intimate infinity pool at the spa, which is as comprehensive as anything you’ll find on land, also becomes a favourite spot as we depart each port, while the main pool, with its twin jacuzzis, attentive staff and live music is the place to be on sea days.
We also enjoy the two formal nights on the ship. While Regent has made a concerted effort to tone down the required formality of some lines (most days are categorised as ‘elegant casual’ making the rare formal nights all the more fun) most guests get into the swing of things with dinner jackets and more sequins than a cabaret line. Adorned, me in a tuxedo and Angela in a curvaceous evening dress, we sip Manhattans crafted by Gusti before joining newly met friends in Compass Rose for dinner, stopping by the ship’s casino for a flutter on our way to the evening show.
Cruising isn’t for everyone; it’s a slow travel lifestyle that comes in many guises. However, it’s easy to see how Regent has consolidated its position at the luxurious pinnacle of the industry and has garnered an extremely loyal following, including an increasing number of customers from across Asia. Taking an early moment on our balcony as we slip into Sydney at sunrise, I see from Angela’s hesitancy to leave the ship at the end of our voyage that the line has earned its newest cruising convert.
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