Spiritual fervour in the holy city of Varanasi in north India flows like the meandering river Ganges; sometimes fast and furious like a waterway in spate; at other times steady as a pulse. Varanasi rises in tiered splendour on the left bank of the sacred Ganges and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
The storied city’s theme song, in a way, is a symphony of tolling temple bells interwoven with the chanting of mantras, fragments of devotional music and the resonant sound of conch shells being blown. The Hindu god, Lord Shiva, may dwell on Mount Kailash in the Himalayas, but it is Kashi (the ancient name of Varanasi) that is his spiritual home.
Indeed, it is believed that those who breathe their last in Varanasi (also called Banaras) attain moksha or salvation and are released from the cycle of life, death, and endless reincarnation. Even those who cannot afford the luxury of waiting in the city to die come here to bathe in the waters of the hallowed Ganges and rid themselves of the bad karma accumulated in a life not so well lived.
Yet Varanasi isn’t an ascetic city that is turned inwards; it is a life-affirming riverfront town where the smell of commerce, overlaid with a bouquet of aromas of spices, incense, and street food and the roar of motor bikes weaving in and out of the narrow alleys in the old city, is its lifeblood. This is a town where, for centuries, a rich heritage of art and music has danced the tango, so to speak, with deep spirituality.
Here’s a 2-day Varanasi itinerary that charts the city’s authentic sights and sounds in luxury.
Day 1: Handlooms, Hidden Crafts, and Ganga Fire Ritual
Touch down in Varanasi, check into your hotel and freshen up.
The drive from Varanasi’s Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (18km to the city centre) can take anywhere from half an hour to an hour, depending on traffic and the location of your hotel.
Afternoon: Lanes of Loom-Song and Eternal Craft
Over lunch at the hotel, listen to an overview introduction to Varanasi from your guide, Pulkit Gupta, founder/ director of Banaras Lanes. Around 3 pm on the first day of your 2-day Varanasi itinerary, combine a shopping spree in the old city with insights into Varanasi’s age-old GI-tagged handicrafts.
Plunge into the by-lanes with your guide, where life swirls non-stop. There may be a brief respectful pause in the frenetic chaos to let a bier pass by, for Varanasi takes death in its stride, viewing it merely as an interlude. Or watch as city folk stop to catch their breath, sip a sweet lassi or a frothy winter delicacy called malaiyo, or munch on streetside fare which spikes the air with fugitive aromas.
Check out neighbourhoods where artisans sit hunched over handmade works of art with skills handed down over generations. The clackety-clack of looms, the sound of a hammer and the scrape of a chisel on soft stone fill the studios/ateliers of the craftsmen.
In the Old City’s Gai Ghat neighbourhood, the exquisite craft of Gulabi Meenakari (billed as the art of pink enamelling) is practised by national award-winning craftsmen like Kunj Bihari Singh.
Back in the day, the art of pink enamelling thrived in Varanasi and involved hand-painting of pink-hued (along with vibrant shades of green and blue) designs on white enamel engraved in metals like gold, silver, or copper. The unique Persian art was imported into India in the 17th century by the Mughals, a dominant dynasty in India from the 16th to mid-19th century. Gulabi Meenakari is now a GI-tagged product and adorns jewellery and home décor items. You may shop for some exquisite, authentic pieces directly from craftsmen like Kunj Bihari Singh.
Woodcraft, including toys and lacquerware pieces, can be purchased near the main Kashi Vishwanath temple.
For the iconic handwoven Banarasi silk saris, scarves, pocket squares for men and sherwanis (festive, long-sleeved knee-length jackets for men), stop by the HolyWeaves’ atelier-cum-shop where tourists and shoppers may watch weavers working their traditional looms with skill and focused intensity. They weave silk threads into yards of gliding silk that swish and swirl on the body, draping it into timeless works of art.
It reminds one of the words of Jasleen Dhamija, an Indian textile art historian who states in her book, Sacred Textiles of India: “The art of weaving is a powerful act, linked to the rhythms of the body. In the folds of a handloom fabric lie a people’s cultural history, their rites of passage and even their memories.”
For a deeper dive into authentic Banarasi silks, head out to weaving hubs in Bajardiha and Pilkothi, where looms have been worked with passion by artisans for decades.
Evening: Fire, Faith, and the Ganga Aarti Spectacle
After sunset, attend the 45- minute grand aarti, along with your guide, at the Dashashwamedh Ghat, located close to the iconic Kashi Vishwanath temple. This ghat is the lively stage for the most spectacular Ganga aarti or prayer ceremony in homage to the sacred Ganges in Varanasi. As one settles down in the VIP seats close to the aarti area, waves of pious devotion course through the crowd of devotees seated on the steps.
These VIP seats are priced and can be arranged by certain hotels like jüSTa Luxé Kashi Parampara. However, there is no entry charge for attending the aarti.
The Ganges, giver of life and giver of boons, flows in the distance, tranquil and seemingly unaware of the love lavished on it by her devotees.
At a given signal, seven priests who have been priming the wicks of the many-layered brass oil lamps step up onto raised platforms. Garbed in rich silks, they face the river and the entire ritual resembles a choreographed spectacle… incense and flowers are offered to the river, the spiralling smoke adding a mystical veil to the proceedings.
The chanting of mantras spins through the octaves as the priests perform their emotive fire ritual with waving of whisks, peacock feathers and the final swirling of multi-layered lamps that form flaming arcs in the now deepening night. Beyond, multiple lit boats criss-cross the river like giant fireflies.
The aarti crests a crescendo and then it’s over. Soon, the gods enshrined in the waterfront temples will be tucked away for the night and a deep peace descends on the frenzied ghats. However, on the so-called Burning Ghats, the crackle and glow of fires continue to stab the night sky, as cremations take place there 24/7.
You may opt for dinner at your hotel restaurant, or at Aadha-Aadha Café nearby, run by an Indo-French couple, or at Behind Yellow Doors Diner, around 5 km away in Sigra. The latter has a European-style café ambience and a quirky menu.
Day 2: Dawn on the Ganges, Shiva’s Shrine, and Riverside Farewell
Rise early on your second day. Varanasi is at its most magical in the hushed, misty hours just before dawn, when the river and the city slowly come to life.
Dawn: Subah-e-Banaras – Awakening the River
Day two of your 2-day Varanasi itinerary involves an early wake-up call to attend the morning prayer ceremony at Assi Ghat, the first of 84 ghats that line the river banks. The Subah-e-Banaras prayer ritual starts with the chanting of ancient Vedic hymns that ride the early morning misty air. As the sun rises, seven priests step up onto raised platforms to perform the sunrise ceremony. The morning aarti starts 45 minutes before sunrise at an unhurried pace, as though to wake up the dawdling river from its deep slumber of the night. The aarti is followed by a Yoga session by the river.
When the first rays of the sun tentatively light the clouds on the eastern horizon, set off on an early morning boat cruise in a swish motor boat that skims silently across the river. Two musicians, a flautist and a tabla (an Indian percussion instrument) player, sit near the prow of the boat and strum the senses as it skims the water. The musicians are an imaginative touch, arranged by some luxury hotels like jüSTa Luxé Kashi Parampara, to give their guests an immersive experience. Refuel with some cookies and a bracing cup of tea/coffee.
Life is lived in the open on the ghats – kids splashing in the waters of the river, devotees paying obeisance to the sun god, a panoply of temples, shrines and palaces straddle the banks, interrupted occasionally by the minarets and dome of a mosque. Priests in the temples wake up the gods and prepare them to receive their worshippers. Another hectic day in Varanasi has dawned and, from a boat cruise, one gets glimpses of a city as it uncurls itself awake, resting only at night when temple bells fall silent.
Disembark at Tulsi Ghat, mount a series of steep steps to arrive at Akhada Goswami Tulsidas, an Indian-style gymnasium where one can watch early morning feats of strength and endurance practised by young men, some of whom are aspiring wrestlers.
Back in the day, the youth of Varanasi were vaunted for their toned, muscular physiques, thanks to attendance at traditional gymnasiums in which youngsters limbered up. Akhadas have declined in popularity and Akhada Goswami Tulsidas is one of the handful left in the city.
Morning: Strength, Sweets, and Sacred Corridors
Head to your hotel for breakfast or to Ram Bhandar near Thatheri Bazaar for a traditional breakfast. The breakfast comprises piping hot kachori subzi (deep-fried fluffy bread accompanied by spicy potatoes/pumpkin curry or black chickpea curry, served in leaf plates). These are rounded off with sinful jalebis, circular rounds of flour, coated with saffron and sugar.
After some time at leisure, opt for lunch at your hotel, or a traditional lunch at Baati Chokha restaurant, where insights into local life are stirred in with a traditional meal, concocted with organically grown ingredients. In the spacious restaurant at the first level, patrons can relax on charpoys (a typical rope bed) after a heavy lunch.
Afternoon: The Golden Heart of Kashi Vishwanath
In the afternoon, head with your guide to Kashi Vishwanath temple, the holiest of holies in Varanasi, recently restored with improved access to the temple and connected to the Ganges and the markets with a four-lane pathway. A museum, tourist amenities and an area allocated for shops are all part of the facelift. Hand phones and cameras have to be placed in lockers and passports need to be shown at entry. Foreign tourists must purchase a ticket for ₹500.
Back in the day, the temple was tucked away in a maze of narrow streets fragrant with a bouquet of aromas (incense, spices, flowers). The original temple was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times in history. This is the site where Lord Shiva first appeared as a fiery column of light and there are 12 such places in India termed jyotirlingas.
Pay your respects to the presiding deity of Varanasi – Lord Shiva – whose black stone lingam (an abstract representation of his creative energy and power) is enshrined in the inner sanctum. In 1780, Ahilyabai Holkar, a visionary queen of Malwa, with its seat in Maheshwar and Indore in the heart of India, rebuilt the temple which one sees today. Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab added a golden dome in the 19th century. Other rulers and patrons enhanced it further. Dress modestly – legs and shoulders should be covered.
For a pick-me-up, stop at Pahalwan Lassi, near Assi Ghat, a tiny 100-year-old stall. Savour the Rabri Walli Lassi, served in earthen cups and concocted with yogurt, fresh cream, stirred with dollops of rabri (a condensed milk dessert) and flavoured with saffron and rose water.
Night: Twilight Strolls and Kathak Arabesques
As the sun dips below the horizon, walk along the ghats for a glimpse of riverine life.
Return to your hotel for dinner and a classical dance performance of Kathak, where the gorgeous garb of the dancers, intense footwork and much swirling of skirts create arabesques of colour and sound.
Where to Stay: Luxury Hotels to Book in Varanasi
Check-in for luxury hotels in Varanasi is generally at 2 pm. Breakfast is often included in the room rate. Check out is at 12 noon or earlier.
Taj Nadesar Palace
The luxury Taj Nadesar Palace is located 5 km away from the Ganges in a rose-trellis-lined mango orchard where peacocks strut and the breeze is scented with a floral fragrance.
The 18th-century palace-hotel brims with royal antiques and art from the maharaja’s personal collection and, in the in-house dining area, guests may savour dishes based on royal recipes as well as international favourites.
A mini golf course, croquet and a spa await guests at one of India’s best palace hotels.
Taj Ganges
The Taj Ganges unravels across 12 acres and is located in the heart of the city. The hotel is within walking distance of the lively ghats, yet the Taj Ganges is enveloped in quiet.
Studded with vintage furniture and artefacts, the hotel’s modern doodads, such as a spa, fitness centre, outdoor swimming pool, restaurants, tea lounge and bar, attract both the leisure traveller and those on business.
jüSTa Luxé Kashi Parampara
If you are looking for a more intimate experience, stay at the 14-room boutique luxury hotel, jüSTa Luxé Kashi Parampara, located near Assi Ghat, where the magical morning Subah-e-Banaras aarti or prayer ceremony is held before sunrise.
This cosy hotel ushers one into the understated luxury of an ancestral home via hand-carved 100-year-old wood pillars at the entrance, high ceilings, fretted sandstone, and earthy furnishings. The hostelry is a distillation of all things Varanasi – its passion for music, art and food.
Wake up to the soft, sonorous rendition of a morning raga by a flautist, and come evening, the open-air central courtyard, studded with the paintings of local artists, becomes a stage for a kathak dance performance. A restaurant, adorned with vibrant murals showcasing cameos of the city, serves plant-based cuisine that is a nod to local delicacies and international flavours.
BrijRama Palace
BrijRama Palace, located on Darbhanga Ghat, is where you wake up to the sight of the Ganges flowing past below. Combining modern-day comforts with the vintage feel of a palace, BrijRama Palace’s rooms are spacious and come with artful décor – hand-woven carpets from Bhadohi, Banarasi art and vintage furniture.
The Maharaja Suite sports a four-poster bed and a claw-foot bathtub! Rooms may overlook the Ganges or the old city, which moves to a timeless rhythm.
Select photography by Gustasp and Jeroo Irani.